
Read this fascinating story of a visitor who comes face-to-face
with a group of mountain gorillas...
"As
soon as I step
out
of the plane, I feel the comfortable warmth around me and
I smell the typical scents in the air. This is Africa!
A representative of Great Lakes Safaris welcomes me and transfers
me safely to my hotel. On our way he talks enthusiastically
about his country; it is clear that he is very passionate
about his job.
The
safari starts very early in the morning as we head towards
the impenetrable part of south western Uganda. While trying
to find our way out of Kampala, I am surprised by the commotion
in the city. Matatus and boda-bodas, used for local transport,
pass other vehicles wherever they can. People are walking
down the road and greet each other friendly. Somehow everybody
knows its way through the ostensible chaos.
Soon we leave the hustle and bustle of the city life behind
us and drive peacefully through the country. Again I am surprised,
this time by the greenness of the landscape. No country in
Africa could be associated more with tropical forested hills
and green valleys. Slowly the number of cars decreases and
I try to catch a glimpse of the daily life at the countryside.
Small villages are relieved by banana plantations and rice
fields. Herds of Ankole cows are grazing peacefully in the
savannah grasslands, their heads adorned by long curving horns.
We quietly pass the area known as the “Switzerland of
Africa” with terraced farming and mountain scenery.
As we’re approaching Bwindi, the landscape becomes more
mountainous. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is located on the
edge of the Western Rift Valley, covering 330 sq kms of an
incredibly dense rain forest, more than a million years old.
Roughly half of the world’s population of mountain gorillas
make their home in these afro-montane forests.
In
the evening we reach Buhoma Homestead via a bumpy, curving
road. The camp is located opposite of the park entrance and
is one of the original camps in Bwindi. I’m led towards
one of the self-contained cottages, where I can enjoy the
view over the forest canopy from my private veranda. After
a delicious meal I settle myself in front of the fireplace
that warms the cool evening and I start to feel anxious for
tomorrow. Finally I will face the giant animals that have
attracted me all the way to Uganda!
It
is cloudy when I start the hike through the African jungle.
The mist that has been lingering in the valleys conceals the
park with a mysterious atmosphere. Together with seven other
tourists I have gathered at the headquarters of Uganda Wildlife
Authority this morning, where the rangers briefed us clearly
about the gorilla trekking. Our international group, consisting
of Americans, Spaniards, Italians and Australians are accompanied
by rangers, trackers and some porters.
We
have been told that the hike can be tough with lots of steep
and muddy parts. But I am determined that nothing will stop
me from my meeting with the gentle giants. The trail we follow
disappears after some time and soon we’re just cutting
our path through the thick tangle of the forest. It’s
magnificent and breathtaking! We pass streams and waterfalls,
we climb and descend. The sounds and smells of the forest
make me curious to what is behind the abundant jungle of vines,
bamboo and huge trees. This is how Africa has been for centuries:
mysterious and untouched!
After
three hours we still haven’t found a trace of the gorillas.
The density makes our hike more and more difficult and the
steep hills are merciless. Unexpectedly we seem to have reached
the place where the gorillas spent their night. We must be
close now! Still our hike continues. More and more often I
have to stop to catch my breath and I start realizing that
this journey is not as easy as I expected. But giving up is
certainly not an option that has crossed my mind!
Then,
all of a sudden, the guide gives us a sign. “There they
are”, he whispers. We have come face to face with a
group of mountain gorillas. I forget everything around me
and only have eye for those immense dark shapes, sitting peacefully
together. Quietly we try to get nearer, as the impressive
silverback watches us closely. I observe the amazing animals
and wonder at their human features. They are so strong and
yet so vulnerable! A baby gorilla stares curiously at our
group. Other gorillas are sitting in the dense undergrowth,
not disturbed by our presence. Suddenly one of the adults
slowly moves in my direction. I hold my breath because I know
that we should keep a minimum distance. At two meters she
finally stops, sits down and starts to eat slowly. Her eyes,
black and gentle, make me feel very humble.
The
guide brings an end to the magical moments by makings us clear
that it’s time to go. An hour has past. Without a doubt
the fastest hour of my life, I think, as I reluctantly back
away. We start our way back to the camp, climbing through
the fields and woods. Tired but extremely satisfied we reach
the camp. I still find it hard to believe that I really spent
time with the gorillas. That they allowed me in their world
for a while. Being there with these gentle apes, surrounded
by nothing more than the African jungle, was an incredible
privileged and fortunate feeling. Their kindness, peace and
amazing human features have impressed me deeply. This beautiful
and humbling experience I will cherish for the rest of my
life...”
Gorilla
Tracking with Great Lakes Safaris
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